Dooars jungle homestays: Gorumara, Jaldapara and Buxa

The best Dooars jungle homestays are near Lataguri, Jaldapara and Jayanti. Lataguri is the base for Gorumara. Jaldapara is best for rhinos. Jayanti and Rajabhatkhawa serve Buxa Tiger Reserve. Go between October and May, because the parks close from mid-June to mid-September. This guide covers bases, travel times and booking.

Where should you stay in the Dooars?

What can you see in Gorumara?

Lataguri is the gateway to Gorumara National Park. Safaris visit the park’s watchtowers, where animals come to salt licks and waterholes. You may see elephants, gaur, deer, peafowl and, with luck, rhinos. Forest-edge homestays here are within easy reach of the safari counters. Nearby Chalsa and Samsing trade the forest edge for tea gardens and views of the hills.

Where can you see rhinos in the Dooars?

Jaldapara is a park of tall grasslands along the Torsa river. It is the best place in Bengal to see the one-horned rhino. Jeep safaris run in the mornings and afternoons. Base yourself near Madarihat, the park’s entry point, so you are not driving long distances before an early safari.

What is Buxa and Jayanti like?

Further east, Buxa Tiger Reserve climbs from the plains into the Bhutan hills. Rajabhatkhawa is its gateway. Jayanti is a riverside village inside the reserve. It has forest walks, and the hills of Bhutan lie beyond the river bed. Buxa is less about game drives and more about forest, rivers and trekking with a local guide.

How do you book a safari?

• Safari permits are issued by the West Bengal forest department. Slots sell out on weekends and holidays, so book as early as you can.
• Ask your homestay host to help. Many arrange safari bookings and transport for guests.
• Carry the ID you used for the booking; it is checked at the gate.
• Wear muted colours, keep quiet in the forest, and do not ask drivers to get closer to animals.

Are the parks open in the monsoon?

Gorumara, Chapramari and Jaldapara close to visitors from mid-June to mid-September, during the monsoon and the breeding season. Homestays stay open and the tea gardens are at their greenest, but there are no safaris. If wildlife is the reason for your trip, go between October and May. Winter, from November to February, is the most comfortable; April and May are hot. More in our month-by-month guide.